To friends near and far: wishing you all peace, happiness and at least a glimmer of Christmas cheer!
I've officially hit pause on the journey. While the weather continues to come from Siberia, the west coast is simply too bleak and wet (either cold rain, or snow). It's not a realistic proposition for sailing or sleeping under the sail right now.
Unable to sit still, I've been taking on DIY tasks at Yumiko's apartment north of Tokyo. My dad always used to paint the bathroom at Christmas, and it provides a sense of continuity for me to be doing the same!
Christmas day isn't a national holiday in Japan, but there are ways to celebrate here too. First on our list is to eat Christmas cake, the Japanese version of which is a strawberry and cream sponge cake. Mmm. Later, after a walk perhaps, we'll eat fried chicken. This is a "tradition" invented by KFC and (despite objections to intensive poultry farming) no doubt I'll enjoy this one too.
All's well. Grateful to be living this charmed life. Thinking of those who don't have it so good. Love and miss you all! I'll be back with more regular updates when sailing again. Happy Christmas.
Korea was cold, we coincided with the biggest November snowfall on record!
Getting back into Japan went smoothly and I got another 90 days (extendable to 180 days). Great news! Since then the weather for sailing has been consistently lousy. As I had been advised, the winter pattern is for strong and cold NW winds to blow in from Siberia across the Sea of Japan. There has been the occasional one-day respite (lighter wind, same direction, still with a sea running) but that isn't tempting or viable when it would be followed by 4 or 5 days of shivering in a blizzard. We loaded up the car on Monday in readiness but decided to abandon.
Current location is in Oma, which (though I have affection for the town) is the very definition of "bleak". It is continually windy and the cold continental air comes laden with salt and frequently snow from its maritime last leg.
The downtime has enabled me to catch up with some work and writing, much of which has been done at the local onsen.
Being a weirdo foreigner I insist upon walking to the onsen, and (for me!) these half-hour strolls are the highlight of the day. The exciting thing about walking when or where other people tend not to is that you get things that otherwise you wouldn't do. Here in Oma (two nights ago) we saw a bear bowl across the road about 50 metres in front of us. It was dark, but when we drew level I could see the animal looking back at me. By this stage Yumiko had bolted (which as you probably know is EXACTLY what you shouldn't do), and was shrieking at me to do the same. I was torn between fascination and obedience but eventually backed away too, and the bear presumably resumed foraging, and perhaps went to hibernate which is what it really should be doing at this time of year.
Yumiko has some meetings later this week, and after that we'll head south with the board. I am still hoping to grab a few days of sailing although that may be wishful thinking. In any case, it will soon be time to officially call a winter break.
Best wishes to all.
Pics of swans at Oma, and a bear spotting selfie.
I just got a message asking if all was OK, as I hadn't updated in a while. Thankyou for your concern and apologies for my absence! Here is a situation update:
All is well! My permission to be in Japan expired on 20th November and (on the very last day of that permission) Yumiko drove us to Aomori airport and we caught a flight to South Korea. There was a sprinkling of snow on the ground when we left.
We have been in Seoul a few days now, living the life of city tourists, and in my case trying to catch up on the tedious "admin of life" that has been neglected over the last 6 months. If all goes to plan I will be able to re-enter Japan in a few days' time, and then the weather will be kind enough to allow progress to recommence. It might be that Yumiko is still providing land support for a while, or it might be that I am back on my own and therefore sleeping under the sail. We'll see. These plans, of course, need to be flexible as the reality of what actually happens might be very different.
I wrote an update for Surf Magazin
a few days ago and in that piece noted that in the first six months of the journey I have made it approximately half-distance round Japan. When I was stuck in the fog for two weeks at Atsunai (Hokkaido), or trapped on fishing nets in the Nemuro Strait, such good progress seemed unlikely. Later there were further setbacks and delays: a moment of inattention that resulted in a broken paddle (resolved by Starboard Japan), and then another bad choice that resulted in a mast and sail breakage (resolved by Loftsails and Unifiber Japan
). At this stage, compared to where I was a few months ago, I consider that halfway round Japan is a good recovery!
Health-wise I am also feeling good. An extended break is helpful for my fingers which are the part of my body that suffers most. Downwind sailing in light winds strains the fingers and wrists, especially as these conditions are unsuitable for being hooked in. Stronger winds are easier on the upper body and instead felt more through the legs...
Next update when I am hopefully back in Japan. Now I'm off to the Spanish Embassy in Seoul, and then shopping to find me a warmer jacket...
"Unfortunately, the onshore and offshore winds were in perpetual stalemate. I sailed into and became trapped in the no-man's land between them. The wind swirled, went dead, puffed hot, puffed cold. Meanwhile the chop built, and turned the sea into a surface that would defy my efforts to paddle should the need arise. Blankets of cloud piled above me: low and smothering, a palette of greys, spitting rain."
Blog update (Akita to Iwaki) --> Link in bio.
Last week I skived off but am now back sailing. Yesterday was rough! Waves over head high. Fortunately there was a decent enough breeze, though it didn't always feel that way. I was concerned about the wind dropping, I was concerned about the lee shore... It was a concerning sort of day! However, sometimes you gotta put up with discomfort, and the reward was a substantial 25 nm southward hop. That put me at 40º north, which by coincidence is the same latitude as menorca. Yoohoo amigos!
Today there was a headwind but a calmingly flat sea. The sun shone, and a breeze arrived and was just enough to flip the board up onto the rail. The scenery was also spectacular. A joy of a day. Reward for yesterday's effort, I told myself.
Today's 9nm got to the south side of the Oga peninsula. That is also good news as I get protection from the next pulse of north swell, which is due tomorrow.
Here are some pictures since arriving back on Honshu. The walks in the woods during dry days have also been good for the soul.
#selecthydrofoils #ybtracking #unifiber #loftsails #worldwidefundfornature
I bid farewell to Hokkaido this morning and made a successful crossing to Honshu. Lots of tuna, sufficient wind to make most of the distance fully planing, and then a bit of windlessness near to Kodomari peninsula, before some cheap bonus miles in the afternoon. Fantastic day! Fuller report with some pictures later.
Two more hops to report: ESASHI and MATSUNAE.
-> link-in-bio
TSUGARU preview
The sail back to Honshu will be my second crossing of the Strait. On the first crossing (Oma to Hakkodate) I experienced first hand the pull of the current. The water flows from Japan Sea to Pacific Ocean as a river. Looking from the shore, it is easy to think that you can judge the current, but you would be wrong (as I was!) because the pull close in is trivial compared to the pull that you find a mile out and beyond. That pull can either rob you of power in the sail, or it can turn a medium wind into something far stiffer. The nautical charts indicate the the narrows are awash with overfalls. On a windy day, or even a moderate day with wind against current, those are to be avoided. The strength of the current is also difficult to predict (the forecast on Windy is inaccurate in my experience). Of course, it can also get much windier mid-Strait than at the edges.
All this makes me rather nervous of the crossing. My preference is to stay to the west of the narrows (Matsunae to Kodomari), but if I am unable to punch the current I make have to allow it to drag me through the gap to where the Strait widens and the current weakens. To prevent this scenario, and stay clear of the overfalls, I need favourable wind direction and strength. However, if the tap is wide open and the strait is running fast, it could be that I go through the plughole regardless of wind and regardless of preference.
The last two days have not been suitable, but have been valuable to recharge batteries and do some Hakkodate tourism. A decision on tomorrow comes later.
Big appreciation to Shino-san and family and connections. Amazing support for this stretch that reminds me of friends met during the Europe journey.
Full version --> link-in-bio
I'm too late. Like a straggler from a flock of migrating geese, the odds now seem stacked against me from escaping the harsh winter of northern Japan.
My objective has become to "complete" Hokkaido by reaching its southwest corner, and then crossing the Tsugaru Strait back to Honshu. Looking at the map that doesn't seem a huge ask, but at this time of year the weather windows are at best short-lived and at other times a figment of wishful thinking.
In Japanese, "windsurfing" is called "windosurfing". That seems very apt right now.
My memory of the last week goes as follows.
--> link in bio.
#Loftsails #Unifiber #selecthydrofoils #clubnauticfornells #windsurfjapan
Today I reached Sapporo, but rather than tell you about that I've got a some postcards to send:
https://japan.onebubble.earth/log/postcards-mashike-and-cape-ofuyu
Jono's diary - 2/3 Oct.
After a day off at Embetsu, a front rolled through on Wednesday morning with a deluge of rain, and the stiff southerly wind switched to an equally energetic north-westerly.
The sea was big and messy, but the wind direction promised some quick miles, so I went onto the water for a look. The port entrance should have put me off. I floated around looking at the exit for a few minutes. I would need to time my exit well, tack at a shallow spot where the bigger waves are crumbling, then head for deeper water. Before I could talk sense to myself, I made the dash and tack, then threaded the needle between the peaking waves and the concrete end of the port's outer wall.
Outside, the 15 knot wind average promised by Windy was being dominated by the gust forecast of 25 knots, and the sea was all elbows. It was far too rough to consider planing in the back straps: a crash would be inevitable. Better to go broad and slow, surfing style, with just a dab of power here and there; picking a line to prevent nose dives and sideswipes; protect the board from launching into freefalls that might break its back upon landing onto the unforgiving lumps.
I am annoyed and exasperated, but also relieved to have a reason to retire early. I know that the fall could easily have been worse. The mast could have broken which would have left me in a real fix. The lee shore is being pounded by the waves, and much of it is concrete sea defence that offers no viable route to dry land.
** Post curtailed. See FB or website for full text. **
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Late update: Rainy last night too, but sunny this morning! I look forward to reaching Sapporo for a meet up with @Hokkaidowilds Rob and his kayak buddies, and also to take delivery of a @selectfins "bombproof" custom fin (see picture).
Arigato #SelectFins #Unifiber #Loftsails #Shosambetsu !