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No tracker movement for a few days as my permission to be in Japan needed a refresh. I made it to Korea with a day to spare, and met up with Yumiko (who was taking a well-earned break from work) in Seoul. Time flew, but we had fun and went up the Namsan Tower for a view of this immense metropolitan area, population 26 million. Mind-boggling that cities function at all, and even more impressive that they seem to function remarkably well.

From Nagasaki, where it rained a lot, I sail and paddle to make it round an outcrop and officially into the East China Sea. The next hop is a crossing of about 13 nm (25 km). Come midday, there is still no reliable wind, but I decide to head out in search of some. I struggle seaward, and about 3 nm from land finally find breeze. Through the middle of the crossing there is sufficient puff to tempt a more ambitious target. I recognise the trap and stick with my plan A: that being the fastest route to land.

Japan Sea to East China Sea

It depends upon who you ask whether this boundary has been crossed. Most reference sources would say that the west facing coast of Kyushu is on the East China Sea, but the authority I usually go with (International Hydrographic Organisation, Limits 1953) puts the boundary meeting the coast at Noma Saki (32°35′ N), at the southern tip of the Nishisonogi Peninsula, a few miles south of Nagasaki.

Some postcards from Honshu and Kyushu. Lots of support coming my way. At Kohaman port, I was particularly grateful to Hironori Arai-san for a lift to a konbini and provision of a shelter on a rainy night.

The following morning took me out to (yet) another impressive exposed headland. The steep slopes a patchwork of countless trees. So many trees... The different greens painted in blotches like an oil painting.

I think that every mile since the last update, six days and four hops ago, has been upwind. For two days it was a pure headwind, fresh at times. Then a north swell rolled in and the wind was entirely absent. Yesterday, it was cross offshore from the left. Today was cross-onshore from the right.

The Shimane coastline has become a favourite of the journey. There are many sandy beaches, and the rockier outcrops are not particularly high or cliff-like. These more gentle features (sometimes, in theory!) encourage stable wind and agreeable sea conditions.

I have just completed the Shimane Peninsula section. This isn't a standard sticky out bit, but rather a sausage of rugged terrain that is connected to Honshu proper by a low plain. The sausage is 36 nm long, in some places indented, and elsewhere with straighter coastline where a side wind can have a decent run. With no konbinis until back on the plain, I stocked up on Cup-Noodles and went off round the corner:

Midway through yesterday this post was going to be called "The Magic Day" but the wind continued to build until it was Tarifa style windy and I was forced to come ashore a little short of my target. Time to rethink the title. The wind had to moderate eventually, and with 30 minutes of sun left (now low and glaring, reducing my ability to see fishing line trip hazards) I finished the job and arrived at Yonago city, having moved the tracker position by 36 nautical miles. That equates to at least 100 km sailed in downwind zigzags.

I posted a video last week  where the board was racing downwind over a flat sea. Everything was in balance, it was effortlessly fast, and it felt glorious! The real deal about windsurfing round Japan, right? Erm, not exactly...

At zoomed-out scale (from space! Wakasa Bay is an indent on the Sea of Japan coast. Having not previously zoomed-in, I'd assumed it would be a continuous bay and easy to sail. In fact, it is an indented coastline with many peninsulas and deep inlets. That's much more challenging. It was a rewarding section and one I will look back on fondly.

There is a joke that Norwegians share about their summer: they say that it falls on a Tuesday. The day doesn't really matter of course. Here in Japan (west coast Honshu), winter has been reluctant to release its grip, and within an eye-blink it will be summer. That doesn't leave long for cherry blossom. Hopefully, when spring does arrive it will stick around a while - a full weekend would be nice.