Shimane Peninsula

I have just completed the Shimane Peninsula section. This isn't a standard sticky out bit, but rather a sausage of rugged terrain that is connected to Honshu proper by a low plain. The sausage is 36 nm long, in some places indented, and elsewhere with straighter coastline where a side wind can have a decent run. With no konbinis until back on the plain, I stocked up on Cup-Noodles and went off round the corner:

Day 1 (Yonago to Shimanecho Noi)

I am still spooked by yesterday's very strong wind, so delay my start until early afternoon when the breeze has moderated. Out to the lighthouse, and round the end of the sausage without issue. On the north side, although blowing over uneven terrain, the wind is mostly well-mannered (f2 to f5). I knock off 10 miles and pull in at a little port, nestled behind an island, where I spy a shelter for camping under, because rain is on the way and the first specks are already falling.

Day 2.

Misty, choppy, yucky day. An onshore wind from Korea sends in waves but there is nothing nearby you could confidently call breeze. The mist, however, drifts in under the shelter and there is no escaping the wet. It is a easy decision to skip sailing. Nothing much here, so I walk to the next town. It's not lively there either, but there is a warm and dry (air conditioned) ATM booth, and a post office. Even tiny villages in Japan have post offices, and the staff are always incredibly friendly and do all they can to help. The staff here gift me a new onsen towel before I walk back to my "boat".

I run out of data on my phone, and am not fully confident that I understood correctly when Yumiko said she had some leave and would come and find me. Shortly before dark a little red car pulls up. Brilliant! Let's get out of here! We head to an onsen to warm up, and then find the nearest "Gusto!" family restaurant where you order on a tablet and a robot delivers your food. A nearby park becomes a pleasant campsite.

Day 3. (to Sakauragyoson)

Headwind. It takes a while to get round the first mini peninsula but the wind improves in the afternoon. I zigzag for 14 nm, and when the wind starts to go soft decide to get to shore quickly rather than risk a more painful end to the day. The pull-in port is a cool place, with a big vertical cliff and a beach protected by a wall. Not much else here (apart from a post office). We go and find an onsen, a Gusto!, and then the nearest camp-ground. Why change a winning formula!?

Day 4.

Useless wind and waves from Korea, with no actual wind to sail by. I must be getting sensible because decide to skip sailing again. Yumiko heads back to Hyogo-ken. Before that we sit together for a while and a few tears fall. It is a good spot to share a moment.

Later I wander (hike) a cliff path through jungle to the next bay. Lots of fishing gear piled up. Find a few Crocs, but not a compatible pair in my size. Cup-Noodle for dinner, and sleep when night falls.

Day 5. (to Kirara)

Headwind of just the right strength (about f4). Am sailing early and smash out the remaining 13 nm to the end of the sausage. Strong current at the end, with some overfalls further out. Grateful for good conditions to get round the end. Add another 8 nm by cutting across the plain in a single tack. Upwind miles are hard. Drysuit leaks a lot. Sunburnt and a bit cold, but there are facilities here (michi no eki "roadside services") so I am inside now and can post an update.