Embetsu to Shosambetsu

Jono's diary - 2/3 Oct.

After a day off at Embetsu, a front rolled through on Wednesday morning with a deluge of rain, and the stiff southerly wind switched to an equally energetic north-westerly.

The sea was big and messy, but the wind direction promised some quick miles, so I went onto the water for a look. The port entrance should have put me off. I floated around looking at the exit for a few minutes. I would need to time my exit well, tack at a shallow spot where the bigger waves are crumbling, then head for deeper water. Before I could talk sense to myself, I made the dash and tack, then threaded the needle between the peaking waves and the concrete end of the port's outer wall.

Outside, the 15 knot wind average promised by Windy was being dominated by the gust forecast of 25 knots, and the sea was all elbows. It was far too rough to consider planing in the back straps: a crash would be inevitable. Better to go broad and slow, surfing style, with just a dab of power here and there; picking a line to prevent nose dives and sideswipes; protect the board from launching into freefalls that might break its back upon landing onto the unforgiving lumps.

I haul max downhaul onto the sail to open the leech, and that makes it easier to flag and go sufficiently broad to sail parallel to the coast. I am well out to sea, and covering the ground quickly. Half an hour in and, despite the unsuitability of the conditions, I am beginning to feel that I have the measure of the day. The first landing option will arrive after 11 nm, though I am now considering continuing for an additional 15 nm.

Some minutes later comes a sudden deceleration and am flung forward and into the water. I've hit something. A fish or a plastic bag is my first guess, but then I see the brown, algae covered rope and recognise it as a (permanent) fixing line for one of the nets. This particular net is not laid, so there is no line of yellow buoys to warn of the hazard. The fall has put another hole in the bow of the board.

I am annoyed and exasperated, but also relieved to have a reason to retire early. I know that the fall could easily have been worse. The mast could have broken which would have left me in a real fix. The lee shore is being pounded by the waves, and much of it is concrete sea defence that offers no viable route to dry land.

At Shosambetsu (my 11 nm option) I concede the duel. The port also has a fair-weather-only opening, but this time I am going with the wind so can slot-in between the waves. On land I review the outing. Could I sail? Yes. Should I have sailed? No. I had been too keen to get south, and had become too emboldened. A day like this is useful to recalibrate decision making.

It would be easy to resent the nets, and indeed frequently I curse them. However, many of my gripes are from some distance back. In recent days the nets have been fewer in number and have preserved a route inshore to pass them. Moreover, it must be acknowledged that the fishing infrastructure is what makes this journey possible. Without the fishing ports there would be very few safe landings. The ports are also convenient places to sleep, and find food, and sometimes meet people.

Shosambetsu has a small port with the town adjacent to the harbour. I enquire about camping on a patch of grass next to a fisherman's workshop. Without a second thought, an offer is made for me to sleep inside the wooden building. Fantastic! A futon is unrolled in the loft bedroom. The wood burner is fired-up downstairs. A washing machine is wheeled over and my salt drenched or dirt stiffened wardrobe thrown in. I am invited by Katcha san and his wife Masako san to their home for dinner, and drink a little beer, and a little sake.

Next morning I breakfast with my hosts, then patch up the board, then sail against a light headwind for most of the day. The wind bends and lifts me a few extra miles to reach Tomamae. I set up camp on some pebbles in readiness for overnight rain, and in the morning finish writing this account.

Arigato Katcha san to Masako san!

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Late update: Rainy last night too, but sunny this morning! I look forward to reaching Sapporo for a meet up with @Hokkaidowilds Rob and his kayak buddies, and also to take delivery of a @selectfins "bombproof" custom fin (see picture).

Arigato #SelectFins #Unifiber #Loftsails #Shosambetsu !